The marquise diamond — also called the "navette" (French for "little boat") — has a dramatic elongated shape with pointed ends at both sides. Legend attributes its creation to King Louis XV of France, who commissioned a diamond cut to resemble the smile of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour.
Maximum Carat Presence
The marquise has the largest face-up surface area of any diamond shape relative to its carat weight. A 1-carat marquise will look significantly larger than a 1-carat round, oval, or cushion. For buyers who want the biggest possible look, the marquise delivers unmatched size-per-carat value.
Ideal Proportions
| Parameter | Ideal Range |
|---|
| Length-to-Width Ratio | 1.75 – 2.15 |
| Table % | 53% – 63% |
| Depth % | 58% – 62% |
Symmetry and the Bow-Tie
Symmetry is critical in marquise diamonds. The two pointed ends must align perfectly, and the two curved sides (the "belly") must be mirror images. Any asymmetry is immediately apparent. Like ovals and pears, marquise diamonds can show a bow-tie effect of varying severity.
Protecting the Points
Both pointed ends of a marquise are vulnerable to chipping. V-tip prongs at both points are essential. Some settings use six prongs (two V-tips at the points and four prongs along the sides) for maximum security.
Finger-Flattering Style
When set north-south on a ring (points toward the fingertip and knuckle), the marquise dramatically elongates the finger and hand. This makes it particularly flattering for shorter fingers or wider hands.